American Masala
Please see the October 2, 2007 newsletter, announcing the book's release.
PUBLISHER'S WEEKLY: Week of 8/6/2007
"Food & Wine"category
American Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen
Suvir Saran with Raquel Pelzel. Clarkson Potter, $35 (272 pages)
ISBN 978-0-307-34150-1
Although the recipes in Saran's aptly titled second cookbook share no unifying principle apart from their deliciousness—whoever heard of Macaroni and Cheese keeping company with Mushroom and Rice Biryani Casserole?—they complement one another in a mysterious way. Such eclecticism reflects how Saran, chef and co-owner of Devi in New York City, cooks for his family and enormous circle of Tupperware-toting friends. Unlike many other chefs' signature dishes, which originate in a restaurant kitchen, Saran's most inspired creations begin at home. When this cooking-without-borders approach succeeds, as it mostly does, the results taste like wild siblings of the original: bolder, stronger, deeper. Seasonings for a delicious variation on harira, a traditional Moroccan soup, include Aleppo pepper and garam masala; a buttermilk brine for fried chicken is flavored with ginger, coriander and cayenne. Indian dishes like Mashed Potatoes with Mustard Oil, Cilantro and Onions and Bombay-Style Whole Snapper, in which the fish is rubbed with a spice paste before roasting, particularly stand out for their elegance and ease of preparation. 60 color photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)
Read praise from well-known food writers including Marion Nestle, Gael Greene, Michael Ruhlman, Mark Bittman, Mollie Katzen, Sheila Lukins, and more. See details: Introduction, chapter listings, recipes, and the front and back book flaps.
You can buy the book now at Amazon.
Praise for American Masala
PUBLISHER'S WEEKLY: Week of 8/6/2007
"Food & Wine"category
American Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen
Suvir Saran with Raquel Pelzel. Clarkson Potter, $35 (272 pages)
ISBN 978-0-307-34150-1
Although the recipes in Saran's aptly titled second cookbook share no unifying principle apart from their deliciousness—whoever heard of Macaroni and Cheese keeping company with Mushroom and Rice Biryani Casserole?—they complement one another in a mysterious way. Such eclecticism reflects how Saran, chef and co-owner of Devi in New York City, cooks for his family and enormous circle of Tupperware-toting friends. Unlike many other chefs' signature dishes, which originate in a restaurant kitchen, Saran's most inspired creations begin at home. When this cooking-without-borders approach succeeds, as it mostly does, the results taste like wild siblings of the original: bolder, stronger, deeper. Seasonings for a delicious variation on harira, a traditional Moroccan soup, include Aleppo pepper and garam masala; a buttermilk brine for fried chicken is flavored with ginger, coriander and cayenne. Indian dishes like Mashed Potatoes with Mustard Oil, Cilantro and Onions and Bombay-Style Whole Snapper, in which the fish is rubbed with a spice paste before roasting, particularly stand out for their elegance and ease of preparation. 60 color photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)
"This book is a warm, personal invitation to make fabulous food at home, all inspired by American and Indian favorites. How could anyone say no to vegetables so gorgeous and so easy to make. Nothing could be healthier. These dishes promise no fuss or drama and I love the descriptions that come with them. I'm convinced. I can't wait to try them all." — Marion Nestle, NYU Professor and author of Food Politics and What to Eat
"I actually hear the voice of Suvir Saran on every page, especially in the intimate recipe footnotes as he reimagines everyday favorite dishes of the American melting pot in his own kitchen, intensifying flavors with the fragrant spices of India. Buy this book for the secret of his rich-as-Croesus macaroni and cheese, the crispy okra salad and, yes, the irresistible skillet cornbread borrowed from an America grandma. "
— Gael Greene, New York magazine critic and author of Insatiable: Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess "Suvir Saran's American Masala is an exciting addition to American cooking. These recipes are simple without being simplistic and bring the vibrant traditions of Indian seasoning and spice to the increasingly diverse American repertoire. Perhaps most important, this book is filled with Saran's huge and generous spirit."
— Michael Ruhlman, author, The Soul of a Chef "Suvir is a beautiful cook! He brings passion, broad knowledge, and sensibility in equal measures to these wonderful dishes, sharing a home cooking style that is both personal and classic. I love his food and can't wait to try these recipes!"
— Mollie Katzen, author, Moosewood Cookbook "I have cooked Suvir's recipes probably fifty times, never without delightful, fresh, inspiring results. When it comes to contemporary and traditional food, I trust him implicitly. American Masala is a gem."
— Mark Bittman, author, How to Cook Everything and The Best Recipes in the World "In the exciting world of food there is only one chef who holds court as the leading authority on contemporary Indian cooking: Suvir Saran. To cook this talented culinarian’s recipes is to get a firsthand understanding and taste of American multicultural food."
—Art Smith, author and James Beard Humanitarian of the Year "Suvir Saran's American Masala is an exhilarating culinary journey. From Cardamom Roasted Cauliflower to sumptuous Crab and Salmon Cakes with a Spicy Cilantro Aïoli, Suvir’s love affair with amazing flavors is evident in every recipe. My own personal favorites will always be his Spiced Pear and Better-than-Ketchup Tomato Chutneys, but I adore his pickles, too!"
— Sheila Lukins, co-author, The Silver Palate Cookbook In his new book American Masala, Suvir Saran gives a zing to a spicylicious and culturally diverse array of recipes."
— Nancy Silverton, chef and author "Place several cups of India in a beautiful big bowl. Add a slice or two of America, a dash of brilliance, a pinch of wit and blend it all together. You’ll end up with one of the most inspiring and sumptuous cookbooks that’s come out in a long time! Once again, Suvir Saran, the consummate Indian chef, has triumphed with his new cookbook. The next best thing to buying a ticket to India (or New York to eat at his fabulous restaurant) Is right here between these covers."
— Joanne Weir, chef and author "I love Suvir’s fresh and modern approach to the Indian kitchen. American Masala is packed with Dishes that are easy to prepare, alive with flavor and sure to delight. Always eager to learn, my repertoire just got upgraded big time. P.S. The crispy okra salad is über-delicious!
— Colin Cowie, author and TV Host
Excerpts from the introduction Masala is the Hindi term for spice. Besides meaning the spice that one adds to food, it also refers to the spice of life, the excitement and vibrancy that blossom from stimulating conversation and a house full of friends and family. All of the things that make life interesting—all of the things that inspire--this is masala. I have lived in America for nearly as long as I lived in India and have come to love American classics like lasagna, cornbread and cobblers. They are now as much a part of my culinary heritage as is dal and dosas. Applying my knowledge of spices to American dishes is what I like to call American Masala. It's my reality and it's how I cook at home.
As a chef and cook, I find inspiration everywhere, from the countries I visit, the people I meet and the food I taste along the way. I have found that the beauty of masala lies in its ability to transpose borders and oceans, and find a home in just about any cuisine, not just Indian. The dishes I cook tend to take on an international theme, reflecting the background and traditions of the places I've seen and the people I know. I create food that I love to eat, food that I find stimulating and satisfying, and that gets people talking. It's often not traditional Indian food that I am cooking, though there are certainly Indian influences, as these aspects of cooking seem to be genetically juxtaposed into my genes.
I do not pretend to have compiled a collection of "classic" Indian recipes. There are several excellent examples of such on the market, published by writers to whom I am indebted for doing the hard work of bringing a foreign cuisine to America at a time when even French food was still exotic here. Those writers have written extensively about our Indian culture, foods, ingredients and techniques. You can read and cook out of those books to get a taste of classical northern Indian dishes such as Roghan Josh, a lamb stew thickened with ground almonds, or the northern Indian chicken dishes Murgh Mussallam (a whole chicken, marinated then stewed) and Chicken Moghlai (chicken in a rich, saffron flavored sauce). While delicious, these dishes require days of marinating and use ingredients that are exotic even to contemporary Indian pantries. This is not the kind of everyday cooking that makes sense for a busy schedule.
Like you, I rely mostly on supermarket staples. I always have tomatoes, red peppers, red onions, cilantro, ginger, lemons and limes in my refrigerator as most of these ingredients usually migrate into my cooking. I also use kosher salt because I find it easier to control and sprinkle in by hand than table salt. Cayenne pepper, jalapeño peppers and chile peppers are like my black pepper--I use these spices often and you can decrease (or increase!) their quantities as you like. I don't expect other home cooks to go searching high and low for specialty ingredients. That said, there are a couple of ingredients that are nice to have on hand, like fenugreek leaves, curry leaves (you can store them in your freezer) and spice mixes like chaat masala, garam masala and sambhaar that stay fresh for up to six months. I provide recipes for the latter two spice blends. Fenugreek leaves and chaat masala can be found in most any Indian supermarket, or simply order from one of the sources in the back of the book on page TK. In just five minutes online or on the phone, you can have these items sent to you and never worry about not having an ingredient in your pantry. If you can't find or don't have a seasoning, don't stress it--eliminate it from the recipe. This is what cooking is about, flexibility and improvisation. Maybe you will come up with a dish even better than mine.

Indian Home Cooking
PUBLISHER'S WEEKLY "Food & Wine"category Indian Home Cooking
There's much to like in this informative cookbook, which offers an accessible take (if, inevitably, not a comprehensive one) on one of the world's most vast and complex regional cuisines. It's a natural development for Saran, who teaches Indian cooking classes and opened the New York restaurant Amma last year. Such expertise is welcome in a book that cherry-picks freely from Moghul meat dishes, Gujerati dals, Hyderabadi greens and Punjabi tandoor dishes. That said, many of the curries are familiar, like Chicken Tikka Masala and Simple Lamb Curry with Coriander and Garam Masala. Surprisingly straightforward vegetable dishes include Smoked Spiced Eggplant, and Crisp Whole Okra with Fennel and Coriander. Rice dishes range from simple (Cumin-Scented Rice Pilaf) to elaborate (Sweet Saffron Pilaf with Nuts and Currants). Lassis, raitas, breads and some unexpectedly Western-sounding desserts (e.g., Blueberry-Lemon Pie and Gingersnap Pudding) complete the volume. Unfortunately, the book's minuscule print poses a nuisance for home cooks, who may be called upon to dash back and forth, adding spices to the pan every 30 seconds. Just taking the time to find one's place on the page can result in smoke and burnt seasonings. Still, Saran and Lyness fill a crucial niche in the cookbook market; their work should be avidly welcomed. 75 color photos.
Book Description
With its exotic aromas and complex flavors, Indian cuisine is one of the world's best. It's no wonder that so many people adore it--and also no surprise that it could seem daunting to cook Indian food at home. Now, acclaimed chef and cooking teacher Suvir Saran cuts out the fuss, sharing casual, home-style Indian dishes that are perfect for everyday cooking. Indian Home Cooking is a celebration of the food Indians cook in American kitchens today, using ingredients found in most supermarkets. With streamlined techniques and intense, authentic flavors, Indian Home Cooking heralds a new generation of Indian cookbooks. From slow-simmered curries with layered flavors to quickly sauteed dishes, these approachable recipes explore the wide world of Indian cuisine, including: *Irresistible snacks and appetizers, such as Puff Pastry Samosas with Green Peas, and Spinach-Potato Patties *Seductively spiced lentil dals, from the North Indian classic flavored with whole cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves to a Southern Indian version with dried red chilies, mustard seeds, and curry leaves *Aromatic meat and seafood curries, like Coconut Chicken with Cashews and spicy Goan Shrimp Balchao *An incredible range of vegetable dishes, including Stir-Fried Green Beans with Cumin, and Cauliflower with Sauteed Green Peppers, Tomato, and Yogurt *Easy, colorful chutneys and pickles to fill your pantry Filled with gorgeous photographs, fresh flavors, and practical advice, Indian Home Cooking is an illuminating guide to real Indian food.
Excerpts from the introduction
"I was once asked by a student why my food tasted so different than other Indian food he’d eaten in America. My first response was that there really isn’t any one such thing as “Indian food”. The food that most Indian restaurants in America serve is northern Indian cuisine, the meat cuisine of the Moguls – Muslim Turks who invaded India in the 16th century and built the great Mogul empire. But I, a Hindu and a vegetarian, also teach a lot of meatless Indian cuisine, dishes that I have adapted from the largely vegetarian communities of northern and southern India. Some of these dishes are spiced quite differently than Mogul food and are unfamiliar to many Americans. But perhaps more importantly, my food is very definitely Indian home cooking. By that I mean first that it is the food that we Indians make in our homes; not the food that we eat in restaurants. It is also not the food that is served in most Indian restaurants here in America, which I find to be comparatively heavy and unidimensional tasting.) It is, however, the food that I, as an Indian expatriot living in New York City, working a full schedule and entertaining several times a week, cook in my own home. When I entertain, often last minute, there are often a dozen or more guests. This lifestyle has given me the knack of finding smart ways to prepare Indian cuisine without compromising its brilliance. With some exceptions it is simple, tasty, satisfying food, not fancy.